The Na are a Tibeto-Burman ethnic group straddling the Yunnan-Sichuan border in southwest China.Their small population of 30,000 belies their considerable stature as the only remaining matrilineal society in all of China. Many of their traditions are being affected by mainstream Han Chinese culture, whose influence through schooling, television, and tourism is growing. New opportunities for Na youth to find employment outside of their villages also threaten the continuity of village life. At the same time, tourism is affirming the income-generating potential of ethnic identity and natural resources. Finally, the steady penetration of Han values is countered by a resurgence of Na religions. This paper is a preliminary report on findings from eight months of fieldwork conducted with support from a Fulbright research grant in 2002.